Assembling a computer for the first time
Hi, i have decided to buy a new computer(or the parts for one).
It will be the first time i assemble one so i would like a little
help from the people on here that has some experaince with computer hardware,
because i myself do not know very much about it.
I have done some research and this is what i came up with:
Motherboard : Asus Z97-A Intel Z97 4xDDR3 SLI CrossFireX Socket 1150 ATX
CPU : Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Socket 1150
RAM : Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3 DIMM PC12800/1600MHz CL9 2x4GB
GPU : Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750Ti OC 2GB D
PSU : CORSAIR PSU 550W VS550
Hard Drive : Western Digital WD20E, 2TB, SATA 6 Gb/s, 3.5", IntelliPower, 64MB
What i want to know is if all these parts will fit together and if it is a good
computer? I want a fast computer thats good at a bit of everything. What i will be using it for mostly is programming, games like bfbc2, downloading/watching movies/tv series and just browse the internet.
And i think i will be using mint as my os(still new to linux).
It will be the first time i assemble one so i would like a little
help from the people on here that has some experaince with computer hardware,
because i myself do not know very much about it.
I have done some research and this is what i came up with:
Motherboard : Asus Z97-A Intel Z97 4xDDR3 SLI CrossFireX Socket 1150 ATX
CPU : Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Socket 1150
RAM : Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3 DIMM PC12800/1600MHz CL9 2x4GB
GPU : Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750Ti OC 2GB D
PSU : CORSAIR PSU 550W VS550
Hard Drive : Western Digital WD20E, 2TB, SATA 6 Gb/s, 3.5", IntelliPower, 64MB
What i want to know is if all these parts will fit together and if it is a good
computer? I want a fast computer thats good at a bit of everything. What i will be using it for mostly is programming, games like bfbc2, downloading/watching movies/tv series and just browse the internet.
And i think i will be using mint as my os(still new to linux).
closed account (E0p9LyTq)
Looks like some decent specs, though I'd personally go with a "heftier" power supply if I were building up a box now. You never know when you might want to upgrade to a power hog component.
Ah, the smell of burning insulation and dust when you fire up your power supply for the first time. :)
Ah, the smell of burning insulation and dust when you fire up your power supply for the first time. :)
Hi,
Is it within your budget constraints to get hold of a quad core i7 chip? Definitely better for any gaming or graphics.
Also, check on the release date of the GPU - it could be 1 year old already.
I am also looking at getting a new machine - the GPU is a GTX 900 series with 6MB of cache.
Another thing is to have a Solid Sate Drive (SSD) these are lightning quick apparently. The typical thing to do is have a 256GB one, along with 1TB say of ordinary HD. The OS goes on the SSD, store your data on the HD. Having 2 HD is good, keep the Windows that will probably be on one of them, Put Linux on the other. Have a GRUB2 boot system so you can choose which will boot on a start-up menu. Make sure you have a 2GB /boot partition (it gets used when one moves to the next release via an update program), I personally like to have separate partition for /opt (software) /home (your files) and a spare partition for testing a new distro with.
The problem with this, is that there is always something better. I am trying to be realistic here - not everyone has untold money. You might be spending half as much as what I am - I am just putting the suggestions out there.
+10 for having a go with Linux :+) Although is Mint at the lightweight end of the Linux distributions? Ubuntu, Fedora and OpenSuse seem to be common choices. I have Fedora.
Most of Linux distros are released every 6 months, it is worth keeping with the program for that - it's a pain when one gets 5 versions behind like I am.
With you new computer - will it be a Laptop or Desktop or Tower? If not a Laptop then it's worth getting a Tower Case IMO - plenty of room to put new stuff in the future. I used to have 2 removable HD bays, so I could chop & change things.
Hope all goes well :+)
Is it within your budget constraints to get hold of a quad core i7 chip? Definitely better for any gaming or graphics.
Also, check on the release date of the GPU - it could be 1 year old already.
I am also looking at getting a new machine - the GPU is a GTX 900 series with 6MB of cache.
Another thing is to have a Solid Sate Drive (SSD) these are lightning quick apparently. The typical thing to do is have a 256GB one, along with 1TB say of ordinary HD. The OS goes on the SSD, store your data on the HD. Having 2 HD is good, keep the Windows that will probably be on one of them, Put Linux on the other. Have a GRUB2 boot system so you can choose which will boot on a start-up menu. Make sure you have a 2GB /boot partition (it gets used when one moves to the next release via an update program), I personally like to have separate partition for /opt (software) /home (your files) and a spare partition for testing a new distro with.
The problem with this, is that there is always something better. I am trying to be realistic here - not everyone has untold money. You might be spending half as much as what I am - I am just putting the suggestions out there.
+10 for having a go with Linux :+) Although is Mint at the lightweight end of the Linux distributions? Ubuntu, Fedora and OpenSuse seem to be common choices. I have Fedora.
Most of Linux distros are released every 6 months, it is worth keeping with the program for that - it's a pain when one gets 5 versions behind like I am.
With you new computer - will it be a Laptop or Desktop or Tower? If not a Laptop then it's worth getting a Tower Case IMO - plenty of room to put new stuff in the future. I used to have 2 removable HD bays, so I could chop & change things.
Hope all goes well :+)
So... my criticism is:
The motherboard is too much for your purposes. This is a budget build and the motherboard isn't a budget board. I would recommend this instead: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131979
Memory is cheap. 8GB was a lot in 2005 but moving forward a decade later, we're starting to use memory more to speed things up. The more memory you have, the more an application can be free with its memory use and do whatever it wants. This is especially so for things like Java and the OS itself. The clock is also important (specifically for gaming). I would recommend this instead: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
The video card is hard to argue for but I really suggest you extend your budget to get a more modern card. It's important since it helps extend the life of your computer to keep up with new standards. I would suggest this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487091
Company with video cards is also very important. EVGA is renowned for having an online system to register your EVGA products so you can easily maintain your warranty without the need for a receipt.
SSD's have recently dropped in price (finally). I would heavily suggest getting at least one to put system files on. Windows especially is ridiculously heavy on the disk IO and it will make a very noticeable difference in various load times on your desktop (such as opening a webpage or system tools). There's no need for state of the art... any SSD is light years faster than a hard disk drive.
PC Part Picker for my recommended build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BwBkZL
The motherboard is too much for your purposes. This is a budget build and the motherboard isn't a budget board. I would recommend this instead: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131979
Memory is cheap. 8GB was a lot in 2005 but moving forward a decade later, we're starting to use memory more to speed things up. The more memory you have, the more an application can be free with its memory use and do whatever it wants. This is especially so for things like Java and the OS itself. The clock is also important (specifically for gaming). I would recommend this instead: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
The video card is hard to argue for but I really suggest you extend your budget to get a more modern card. It's important since it helps extend the life of your computer to keep up with new standards. I would suggest this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487091
Company with video cards is also very important. EVGA is renowned for having an online system to register your EVGA products so you can easily maintain your warranty without the need for a receipt.
SSD's have recently dropped in price (finally). I would heavily suggest getting at least one to put system files on. Windows especially is ridiculously heavy on the disk IO and it will make a very noticeable difference in various load times on your desktop (such as opening a webpage or system tools). There's no need for state of the art... any SSD is light years faster than a hard disk drive.
PC Part Picker for my recommended build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BwBkZL
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+1 FurryGuy.
@ OP: Your graphics card, on it's own, consumes 400W: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4948#sp
Your CPU is another 84W on average: http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz
Call it between 50W and 100W for your Mobo and then try to factor in your cooling fans. You're probably in just under your 550W limit, and that's total output from the PSU so you don't even know if you can balance the power on each of the rails properly. I'd go for at least 700W on a system like this, but buy it at the price break.
EDIT: I just found this which looks to be pretty handy http://www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html
@ OP: Your graphics card, on it's own, consumes 400W: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4948#sp
Your CPU is another 84W on average: http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz
Call it between 50W and 100W for your Mobo and then try to factor in your cooling fans. You're probably in just under your 550W limit, and that's total output from the PSU so you don't even know if you can balance the power on each of the rails properly. I'd go for at least 700W on a system like this, but buy it at the price break.
EDIT: I just found this which looks to be pretty handy http://www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html
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| @ OP: Your graphics card, on it's own, consumes 400W: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4948#sp Your CPU is another 84W on average: http://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz Call it between 50W and 100W for your Mobo and then try to factor in your cooling fans. You're probably in just under your 550W limit, and that's total output from the PSU so you don't even know if you can balance the power on each of the rails properly. I'd go for at least 700W on a system like this, but buy it at the price break. |
CPU: i5 3570 (3.4 GHz)
GPU: GTX 760
1 7200 RPM HDD
1 SSD
1 22" LCD monitor
I was skeptical of the performance benefits of SSDs even before I bought one, and I have to say I'm still not convinced they're really worth it. Yes, the system boots faster (~10 seconds from cold boot) and the programs load somewhat faster, but that's not where all the I/O time is spent in normal operation. Most of the time is spent loading data from the file system, not code; and since data is nearly always much larger than code, it will end up in rotating platters since silicon is still really expensive.
closed account (E0p9LyTq)
| I just found this which looks to be pretty handy http://www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html |
@Computergeek01, that is one helpful link. My "Built From Scratch" PC days are decades ago. The last PC I built was about the time when AMD had just cracked the 1GHz barrier, the idea of multiple processors on a single chip wasn't even a dream.
@ helios: Where in the circuit is this power meter? I only ask because volt amperes are not the same thing as watts and we want to keep comparing apples to apples. Also, we want to accommodate peak draw and I've always been suspicious about how real-timey those monitors are. Rather than debating it though we can settle the whole thing right now. Since you seem to have a comparable set up to what the OP is aiming for, assuming you don't have some crazy iTX off-shoot, would you mind posting the output on your PSU? That way we have a tested configuration that we know to be adequate.
@ OP: I forgot about the UPS, buy a UPS. It doesn't matter how, find a way to fit it into your budget and remember to strangle to first jerk who tries to plug a printer and\or scanner into it.
@ Anyone-who-will-read: I swear I get angrier and angrier every year at the custom PC market. Not only have they completely lost the competitive edge that they once had over the pre-fabricated units in pricing, but they insist on dumbing it down more and more every time I look. Now any idiot can make the wrong decision based on completely useless metrics. Take OP's hard drive for instance, I'm glad to know that it could in theory get hot enough for me to cook eggs on it, but what's the seek time on it? How many read heads does it have? I don't give a damn about how loud the thing is, it's not a bag of sunchips so I know I'm not going to go deaf. I promise you that my wife and kid are ten times louder than if the thing were to explode inside my case. I absolutely LOVE how the very first performance counter they list, has almost nothing to do with the drive itself; it's just a statement of fact that the transfer speed of this generation of SATA is 3 Gb\s. Oh look it can survive 65Gs and still read the platter, I'm glad to know that I can still play Minecraft the next time I take my desktop onto a f***ing roller coaster. Kudos to who ever decided to put up the physical dimensions of the drive, it's not like 3.5" has been a standard footprint for 20+ years or anything. Completely useless.
@ OP: I forgot about the UPS, buy a UPS. It doesn't matter how, find a way to fit it into your budget and remember to strangle to first jerk who tries to plug a printer and\or scanner into it.
@ Anyone-who-will-read: I swear I get angrier and angrier every year at the custom PC market. Not only have they completely lost the competitive edge that they once had over the pre-fabricated units in pricing, but they insist on dumbing it down more and more every time I look. Now any idiot can make the wrong decision based on completely useless metrics. Take OP's hard drive for instance, I'm glad to know that it could in theory get hot enough for me to cook eggs on it, but what's the seek time on it? How many read heads does it have? I don't give a damn about how loud the thing is, it's not a bag of sunchips so I know I'm not going to go deaf. I promise you that my wife and kid are ten times louder than if the thing were to explode inside my case. I absolutely LOVE how the very first performance counter they list, has almost nothing to do with the drive itself; it's just a statement of fact that the transfer speed of this generation of SATA is 3 Gb\s. Oh look it can survive 65Gs and still read the platter, I'm glad to know that I can still play Minecraft the next time I take my desktop onto a f***ing roller coaster. Kudos to who ever decided to put up the physical dimensions of the drive, it's not like 3.5" has been a standard footprint for 20+ years or anything. Completely useless.
| Also, we want to accommodate peak draw and I've always been suspicious about how real-timey those monitors are. |
| Since you seem to have a comparable set up to what the OP is aiming for, assuming you don't have some crazy iTX off-shoot, would you mind posting the output on your PSU? |
Power supplies aren't generally that expensive. I have this: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1000-XR
It's not a bad power supply and comes with a 10 year warranty. I'd sooner see ATX12V go out of standard before this power supply stops serving my needs. You can get a different binned version (GOLD rating) for $160 with 5 year warranty.
I actually can't find a seller of the power supply OP posted... Newegg doesn't sell it anymore and it sells for 34 euros in the UK on Amazon which is sketchy sketch at best. I cannot recommend it.
Yeah, I totally agree. The marketing is almost deceitful and aimed at people who haven't had a few years to figure things out.
It's not a bad power supply and comes with a 10 year warranty. I'd sooner see ATX12V go out of standard before this power supply stops serving my needs. You can get a different binned version (GOLD rating) for $160 with 5 year warranty.
I actually can't find a seller of the power supply OP posted... Newegg doesn't sell it anymore and it sells for 34 euros in the UK on Amazon which is sketchy sketch at best. I cannot recommend it.
| Computergeek01 wrote: |
|---|
| @ Anyone-who-will-read: <snip> |
Yeah, I totally agree. The marketing is almost deceitful and aimed at people who haven't had a few years to figure things out.
That gpu does not consume 400W on its own, I have the ASUS OC edition with only a 500W PSU, which also has to power water cooling, an i7 cpu, hdd & ssd, and a whole host of usb peripherals... and I still have power to play with.
To me the cpu and gpu look perfectly fine for what you've mentioned, I've was using AMD A10-6800k and Asus GTX750 Ti OC 2gb, (with 1x8gb super cheap ram) and there was very little I couldn't do.
I've not looked at the motherboard but if the socket fits it should work, just make sure you have/get a case that is the right size to fit all this in and has the correct mounting for that motherboard... when buying a case it will say if it can mount MATX/ATX/etc.
Someone mentioned getting a bigger psu in case you want to upgrade, that may be a fair point but if you're on a budget at moment psu isn't expensive to replace later
To me the cpu and gpu look perfectly fine for what you've mentioned, I've was using AMD A10-6800k and Asus GTX750 Ti OC 2gb, (with 1x8gb super cheap ram) and there was very little I couldn't do.
I've not looked at the motherboard but if the socket fits it should work, just make sure you have/get a case that is the right size to fit all this in and has the correct mounting for that motherboard... when buying a case it will say if it can mount MATX/ATX/etc.
Someone mentioned getting a bigger psu in case you want to upgrade, that may be a fair point but if you're on a budget at moment psu isn't expensive to replace later
Well there you have it then. I don't mind admitting that I'm wrong, especially in lieu of any actual white sheets to base my data off of. Between helios and SetsumaBenji I think we have the evidence we need to say that a 550W will in fact be adequate for your needs OP.
Just a few more question regarding the parts here. In the Mobo specs it says this:
I know that you want audio capacitors to be high quality, but is there something about the Japanese manufacturing techniques that I've missed recently? Has the code of Bushido been expanded to dictate the quality of ceramic disks and electrolytics? Or did this document just go full Weebo on us? And what's this about fidelity? Is this more asianic obsession or are they implying that another motherboard might run off with my wife and my credit cards? What has this world come to!
That "Warm sound" that is usually associate with vinyl records by the way is due to wear and tear on the media from the needle across the grooves. It's something to be avoided which is why modern record players are slowly switching to an optical needle. I must have been spending too much time ordering office equipment over the past few years. I am completely out of touch with the BS verbiage being used these days.
Just a few more question regarding the parts here. In the Mobo specs it says this:
| Premium Japanese-made audio capacitors: Provide warm, natural and immersive sound with exceptional clarity and fidelity |
I know that you want audio capacitors to be high quality, but is there something about the Japanese manufacturing techniques that I've missed recently? Has the code of Bushido been expanded to dictate the quality of ceramic disks and electrolytics? Or did this document just go full Weebo on us? And what's this about fidelity? Is this more asianic obsession or are they implying that another motherboard might run off with my wife and my credit cards? What has this world come to!
That "Warm sound" that is usually associate with vinyl records by the way is due to wear and tear on the media from the needle across the grooves. It's something to be avoided which is why modern record players are slowly switching to an optical needle. I must have been spending too much time ordering office equipment over the past few years. I am completely out of touch with the BS verbiage being used these days.
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closed account (z05DSL3A)
| Computergeek01 wrote: |
|---|
| I know that you want audio capacitors to be high quality, but is there something about the Japanese manufacturing techniques that I've missed recently? |
...but yes some places have a reputation for producing certain items at a higher quality, think Swiss watches, Belgian chocolate, Russian valves (electronic) and US ... erm... well you get the idea.
I'm curious about your comment on fidelity... have you never heard of "HiFi"?
For some reason gpu manufactures put on their specs a "recommended minimum power supply" (some things don't even have the "recommended" there) which is what they suggest as the minimum power supply for your whole system... which makes absolutely no sense at all, when I got my computer it had a 250W psu and to add the gpu, the total power consumption of my system at the time with the 750 ti would have been about 260W (so 300W needed to be on safe side).
As someone earlier mentioned the "recommended" for that gpu is 400W... HOW HAVE YOU GOT THIS FIGURE?!
I could place that gpu in a pc and the total system could use anything from 250W to 1kW or even higher (or lower if you're optimising well specifically for power)...
Building pc's really isn't hard at all but it's not friendly with the most stupid of tiny little things.
For some reason gpu manufactures put on their specs a "recommended minimum power supply" (some things don't even have the "recommended" there) which is what they suggest as the minimum power supply for your whole system... which makes absolutely no sense at all, when I got my computer it had a 250W psu and to add the gpu, the total power consumption of my system at the time with the 750 ti would have been about 260W (so 300W needed to be on safe side).
As someone earlier mentioned the "recommended" for that gpu is 400W... HOW HAVE YOU GOT THIS FIGURE?!
I could place that gpu in a pc and the total system could use anything from 250W to 1kW or even higher (or lower if you're optimising well specifically for power)...
Building pc's really isn't hard at all but it's not friendly with the most stupid of tiny little things.
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